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Overrevving after carb clean

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Overrevving after carb clean Empty Overrevving after carb clean

Post  denis_denis Fri 1 Apr - 12:52

Hi all,

My name's Denis and I'm a new Townmate owner.

I bought a T50 about a month ago, and I'm enjoying it a lot, but it needs a bit of fettling. There was an issue with bogging and it was quite bad at idling when cold, stalling quite easily. So I cleaned out the carb to see if it would help.
When I put everything back together and started the engine, it was revving very high. I adjusted the two screws to bring the idle speed down to sensible levels, but now every time I rev the throttle it takes ages to drop back down to idle revs - about 10 seconds.
Has this ever happened to you? If so, what was the cause, and how did you fix it???
One thing I've noticed from reading various things online is that maybe the air screw should have a little o-ring and/or washer on it. I don't think mine has - there's just the screw and a little spring in there. Do you think this might be the cause?

Also, my front indicators keep coming loose. On some pictures I've seen Townmates with front indicators that are different to mine - instead of sticking out on black stalks like mine they sit sort of flush with the nacelle. Does anyone know where you can get these?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Denis

denis_denis

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Post  JohnW Fri 1 Apr - 16:14

Taking the indicator issue first. The older T80's did have the shorter indicators, the fixing for fronts is the same for both a M6 nut & bolt, looks like yours need tightening, bit of a fiddly job though as access is limited. The older indicators for front are interchangeable & sometimes come up on eBay, but the rubber ones are more common.
As for carb problem, I dont think the O ring is problem of revs not dropping back its more likely a sticking slide, or maybe air getting into the manifold, ie blown gasket. Never had this problem myself.

JohnW

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Post  denis_denis Fri 1 Apr - 19:57

Hi JohnW,
Cheers for replying so quickly. I'll check for the older type indicators from time to time on Ebay. Is there anywhere else I should look?
And with regard to the carb, I guess it's just a long process of elimination, right? I just wondered whether there was a common fault on these bikes that might cause it.
Cheers

Denis

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Post  barker Sun 3 Apr - 19:11

when you cleaned the carb did you put the spring in the accelerator pump back properly it goes over or around is a better expiation that's the bit that sticks out the side of the carb looks like a tickler like on old carbs

barker

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Post  JohnW Sun 3 Apr - 22:47

barker wrote:when you cleaned the carb  did you put the spring in the accelerator pump back properly it goes over or around  is a better  expiation that's the bit that sticks out the side of the carb looks like a tickler like on old carbs

That wont cause the revs to stay high, would only cause a slight flat spot when cold, in fact I have not found the accelerator pump plunger not working (they can stick) effects anything much. As I said before problem more likely sticking carb slide or throttle cable.

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Post  3hundredspartans Mon 4 Apr - 2:45

Is the spring on the butterfly mechanism installed properly. On the bracket where the accelerator cable attaches, it's there.

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Post  JohnW Mon 4 Apr - 9:13

3hundredspartans wrote:Is the spring on the butterfly mechanism installed properly. On the bracket where the accelerator cable attaches, it's there.

Yes its the main return spring for throttle valve (not the choke butterfly mechanism under plastic cap) its probably not fitted correctly or broken.
Looks like the spring is not listed as an item on the carb drawing and is probably part of the main carb body, so getting replacement (if broken or weak) may entail buying another carb.

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Post  3hundredspartans Mon 4 Apr - 13:56

That's the one John. :d\\'-\\':

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Post  denis_denis Mon 4 Apr - 17:09

Cheers for your suggestions guys.

I can't quite remember how the accelerator pump spring went in, but when I push the little rod down it pops back up again, so I'm guessing that's OK. Is that a fair assumption to make?

I haven't checked the spring on the throttle valve return yet, so I've got a few things to check out.

I've now got another problem though.

I tried to start it this morning, and whilst it would just about start and idle it was sounding very rough, and applying the throttle just made the revs go up a little bit to maybe 2000rpm, and made it sound even more rough, sort of like a choking noise!

Old bikes eh....... I'm glad work is only 7 miles away cos I'm back on the pushbike!

I wonder whether this new problem is anything to do with the CDI/power/spark setup? Or whether it's just more carb-related problems? What do you think?

D

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Post  denis_denis Mon 4 Apr - 17:11

BTW, I got some M6 nuts, bolts and washers and attached the indicator stalks nice and tight. At least I've managed to fix something!

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Post  JohnW Mon 4 Apr - 18:04

denis_denis wrote:Cheers for your suggestions guys.

I can't quite remember how the accelerator pump spring went in, but when I push the little rod down it pops back up again, so I'm guessing that's OK. Is that a fair assumption to make?

I haven't checked the spring on the throttle valve return yet, so I've got a few things to check out.

I've now got another problem though.

I tried to start it this morning, and whilst it would just about start and idle it was sounding very rough, and applying the throttle just made the revs go up a little bit to maybe 2000rpm, and made it sound even more rough, sort of like a choking noise!

Old bikes eh....... I'm glad work is only 7 miles away cos I'm back on the pushbike!

I wonder whether this new problem is anything to do with the CDI/power/spark setup? Or whether it's just more carb-related problems? What do you think?

D

Maybe choke is sticking on, difficult to diagnose without seeing the bike. If you dont know how to fix it yourself it may be better to take it to a local bike shop for them to sort it. You need one who knows about old bikes though, maybe a small outfit with experience of Townmates. You need to phone round. Where are you?

JohnW

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Post  denis_denis Mon 4 Apr - 23:13

You might be right. I'm really stumped at the moment, because now if I disconnect one of the CDI wires - the white and black one - the bike starts to rev again. I don't think that can be a good sign...

I live in Clapton E5, in NE London, so if you know of any townmate-friendly garages nearby, that'd be really useful to know.

Thanks again

Denis

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Post  JohnW Tue 5 Apr - 12:31

denis_denis wrote: I live in Clapton E5, in NE London, so if you know of any townmate-friendly garages nearby, that'd be really useful to know.

Sorry cant help there as I live near Cambridge, no doubt some one will know of a good repair shop in E5

JohnW

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Post  barker Tue 5 Apr - 17:56

working on getting you a phone number of a c90 member who has a garage in south London who will be able to help

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Post  barker Wed 6 Apr - 8:33

Dave Wilkins motorcycles
59 Jasmine Grove Penge London SE20 8JY
Phone:-020 8249 7940 Fax:-020 8325 8939 Mobile:-07860 215638
Business hours Monday/Friday 8am-5pm +Saturday Morning

barker

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Post  barker Wed 6 Apr - 12:06

hope this is of some use to you, let us know what the problem was
Overrevving after carb clean Rightside

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Post  denis_denis Thu 7 Apr - 0:19

Will do. Thanks for finding the contact details for that garage. I'm going to try a couple more things myself next week(hopefully not make it too much worse...) then if none of them works, book it in with Dave Wilkins. I'll let you know how I get on.

denis_denis

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Overrevving after carb clean Empty fixed (almost)

Post  denis_denis Wed 13 Apr - 20:19

Just a quick update, I think I've pretty much fixed my T50.
As far as I can make out, it had 2 problems. Firstly, the mixture was weak because of extra air getting into the carb. That was causing the over-revving. Once I got that sorted it went back to its usual ride-able but boggy unresponsive self, particularly bad when cold. The only difference was it had a steadier idle, I guess because the carb clean helped - bits of crap were no longer getting stuck in the small (pilot?) jet.

I noticed one of the wires was disconnected on the CDI. It must've been like that when I bought it. The bike was still working with this wire disconnected, but obviously not firing particularly cleanly. I plugged the wire back in and found the bike suddenly worked a treat. But the next day it wouldn't rev at all. So I disconnected the black and white wire again and it went back to its usual ride-able but boggy unresponsive self.
Best guess at this point was an intermittent CDI fault. So I got a replacement CDI unit from a scrap yard and wired it in. So far everything seems OK. I've done 4 short-ish journeys on it, and performance is seriously better.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions. The bike still needs some work so I hope you don't mind me asking for some more advice in future. But I'll start a new thread for any new subjects.

denis_denis

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Post  barker Wed 13 Apr - 22:37

some progress , its a good start

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