I present to you my own T50

Ideed speechless...

Hi Duckrider

You have put a lot of effort into your little bike - well done

Cheers

First, thank you for your very good words.

I feel fortunate there are many motorcycles of this type in my country and they are sold for spare parts at low prices.

There are also many spare parts stores that still have a genuine stock in small quantities but at reasonable prices.

Beginning with the second rebuild, I had a problem with many screws, washers, springs that were slightly rustled and ruined the general picture.

So I had to chrome them all up, this way the cost has increased significantly but there was no other way to avoid rust.

The engine side covers and the steering switches were not absolutely necessary to make theme chrome , but i did so to avoid scratches and a problem with the paint from the shoes.

Now I'm trying to wrap a lighting coil.
The light coil is double as you may know, some of it charges the battery through the rectifier and some of it is used for the lighting that works when the engine is running.
If you remove the bulbs, the alternating voltage of the lighting coil is about 37 volts AC.
Because the rectifier works in half-time, we have half the current.
Because the rectifier recovers in half-time, we have half the current.
So I thought of wrapping a lighting coil that is also for charging the battery, so I can extract over 50 volts and double current, that means twice the power.
Yoy will you ask me why I do not use a genuine 12 volt illumination coil?
Because the problem is not the voltage but the power.
Only with a lot of power I will be able to put a lamp in front, for example H4 or a xenon projector for small motorbikes.

To be continued ...

Sorry for my curiosity,how much money did you spend for that full restoration?

Come on Christian !

You would never ask a lovely lady how old she is ? So do not expect a motorcyclist to tell you how much he spends on his hobby.

I want to now,'cause i want mine to do.
That' all...nothing more.Honest!

Christian 1 wrote:Sorry for my curiosity,how much money did you spend for that full restoration?

Christian 1, here is what i pay for all this :

I bought the T50 for 160 euros at 2005.
First time i pay about 260 euros for paint and parts. I paint it myself.
This work is what you see at the first posts.

Now I paid about 800 euros.
For chrome
General engine repair
Wheels.

This is what i bought:



This time I decided to make the wheels chrome.
I have never had spokes removed.



I pay 30 euros for each rim , i paint the hub , and use spokes from Kawasaki





I have photos from all i did, if you want to see my work i will post these photos.
But you will promise that you will be lenient to my English.

Of course i want.
My english is not better than yours.

Jesus,that was the shape before you bought it?

you guys write good English, much better than my Greek !!!!!  

Christian 1 wrote:Of course i want.

Ok, Christian 1 Let the story begin

Christian 1 wrote:My english is not better than yours.

Τhis is hard to believe but I will give a try.
Hope google translator will help me

Christian 1 wrote:Jesus,that was the shape before you bought it?  

Yes that was the T50 when I found it.

I bought it in 2005 at the age of 45, and until then I had not driven a two-wheeled motor.

From the beginning, I heard a metal noise from the engine and determined it at the point where the cylinder was connected to the rest of the engine.
The noise or rather a blow sounded more when idling.

Τhat time I did not have time to deal with, and I was pleased with more frequent changes of oil in order not to get worse.
But after three years I had a problem with the clutch discs, and I had to remove the engine for repair.
Although I did not drink oil, I had no blue smoke from the exhaust.
Another reason I started this process was to raise the cylinder to have some more power.



I removed the engine without the carburetor, it was easier, and I also left the cables in their place.

As you can see the engine is a 22F .

The camshaft cap came out, the sprocket was unscrewed and the cylinder head was unscrewed



I noticed a surface that showed friction marks with the camshaft cap.
At first I assumed it was normal.

Τhe cam shaft chain falls in



By removing the head I see and in what condition are the valves.



It was the first time I opened an engine and I did not know if it was right to be so black or to have stumps.

Τhe cylinder came out with a hammer and a piece of wood ,And now I've been able to see the piston

As you can see the engine is a 22F .

The camshaft cap came out, the camshaft sprocket and the cylinder head was unscrewed .



I noticed a surface that showed friction marks with the camshaft cap.
At first I assumed it was normal.

Τhe cam shaft chain falls in



By removing the head I see in what condition are the valves.



It was the first time I opened an engine and I did not know if it was right to be so black or to have stumps.

Τhe cylinder came out with a hammer and a piece of wood ,And now I've been able to see the piston

Deposits on the piston , good or bad? who knows?



The right cover came out, the screws came out with a hammer, both hammer / cutter



This filter is above the oil cap, and it has a lot of dirt.

It had picked up something like a fiber, like a cloth, nothing metallic since I put on a magnet.



I got to the primary driven gear comp, all spotless .
But the inside of the engine was dirty with something that looked like burned oil or deposits from burning;



I made this tool as it is in the Haynes manual and I removed the center screw, in order to remove the clutch discs.



However, it was not necessary to remove the screw to change the discs ,
these can removed by unscrewing these four philips screws.
Τhe central screw is screwed off to remove the whole driven gear comp.



To be continued ....

Wow...
Speechless.

Duckrider wrote:

Christian 1 wrote:Sorry for my curiosity,how much money did you spend for that full restoration?

Christian 1, here is what i pay for all this :

I bought the T50 for 160 euros at 2005.
First time i pay about 260 euros for paint and parts. I paint it myself.
This work is what you see at the first posts.

Now I paid about 800 euros.
For chrome
General engine repair
Wheels.

This is what i bought:



This time I decided to make the wheels chrome.
I have never had spokes removed.



I pay 30 euros for each rim , i paint the hub , and use spokes from Kawasaki





I have photos from all i did, if you want to see my work i will post these photos.
But you will promise that you will be lenient to my English.  

So prices about the same as UK. The T50 is not that desirable here unless upgraded to 80cc, a gutless bike wit only 3 speed gearbox. Presumably T80 is not that available in Greece.

JohnW wrote:
So prices about the same as UK. The T50 is not that desirable here unless upgraded to 80cc, a gutless bike wit only 3 speed gearbox. Presumably T80 is not that available in Greece.

My motorcycle was fully functional when I bought it, although it had external signs due to age.
I have not seen so far a UK-based motorbike for 120-150 euros.
The T50 is even weaker and with one less speed, but it has higher compression, shorter gear and drive shaft ratios and fewer balls (12) in the clutch so the driver change speeds at higher engine speed.
My T50 can not develop a high final speed, but it's the ideal motorbike for the city center.
The T50 was first in preference because it was considered a moped because of the legislation.
So the owner paid a minimum amount of money for license plate and insurance.
The T80 was always available, but none of the two was available from the representative with 12 volt or electric starter,
12 volt motors come from imports used by independent importers.

One problem I have with the cylinder head, the camshaft gear shows to touch on the metal of the head,



basically the camshaft along with the ball bearing moves 2-3 mm out, as if the bearings are moving in their nest.
That's bad.



As I do not know if it is being repaired, I find it better to replace it.
Luckily, a friend gave me a full engine a little while ago, so I do not have a problem with the spare parts

The metal discs have no wear, but I will measure them with the caliper if I find their limits at the manual.



The friction plates I do not know in what condition are, this is the first time I hold these in my hands ...
Also i do not know if these are the original or they have been changed from an earlier owner.



It remains to unscrew the central nut of the primary driven gear.



So I will be able to remove the centrifugal oil filter for cleaning.

I must not forget to clean the inside of the oil level gauge



because of the deposits so far it was almost impossible to check the engine oil level.



I built this tool and unscrewed the central screw of the primary driven gear, as the Haynes manual suggests



I bought a blanket for the rotor, cheap at 5 euros, and i remove it



I took off the base of the coils



After I removed the center gear, it was easy to get out the centrifugal filter



I opened the filter and cleaned it very well.



I encountered a problem with the oil cap, as almost always someone overloaded it and the threads had been destroyed



You can see the aluminum shavings on the screw

After all, I split the engine to remove the crankshaft.



I clean all parts:





At this point I must say that the engine did not have the slightest damage.
Excluding dirt , all parts were found in excellent condition despite 53,000 km.

Eventually I had the crank in my hands.
I went to a machine shop, divided it and changed its bearings as well as the connecting rod bearings.

You can fit an Suzuki DR 125/200 magnetic oil drenage screw,it's the same.In my case was.

I forgot to mention that I repaired the oil cap using helicoil insert.

So far it has worked properly and has not been leaking oil.

The same I did with mirror threads on the steering wheel switches, in this way reinforced the thread strength of the screws.

You're almoust a perfectionist...

"One problem I have with the cylinder head, the camshaft gear shows to touch on the metal of the head,"

End float on the camshaft is normal, and also for the back of camshaft sprocket to rub on the head casting as shown. My bike has always been like that and has covered thousands of miles. So no need to worry about that.