I present to you my own T50

I do not know much about mechanical problems, the wear on metal parts as small as it is causing me anxiety.
I was initially meant to leave it in this situation, but the noise that sounded worried me.
I was afraid the noise was coming from the connecting rod or the crank shaft.
If it was from there the damage would be very serious.

Finally, as it turned out, the noise came from the camshaft chain.
The camshaft gear moved along its axle with the camshaft and the bearings, which may have the effect of knocking the chain on the side walls.
Maybe , i will never know that for sure.

Duckrider wrote:I do not know much about mechanical problems, the wear on metal parts as small as it is causing me anxiety.
I was initially meant to leave it in this situation, but the noise that sounded worried me.
I was afraid the noise was coming from the connecting rod  or the crank shaft.
If it was from there the damage would be very serious.

Finally, as it turned out, the noise came from the camshaft chain.
The camshaft gear moved along its axle  with  the  camshaft and the bearings, which may have the effect of knocking the chain on the side walls.
Maybe , i will never know that for sure.

The noise is almost certainly slack in cam chain, worse when hot than cold. Adjust cam chain as per manual and it should be fine.
The manual does not mention end float in camshaft so presumably not important.

JohnW wrote:
The noise is almost certainly slack in cam chain, worse when hot than cold.

The opposite was happening to mine, with a cold engine the sound was stronger and more acidic and metallic.
Anyway, this sound was not rhythmic, it naturally changed depending on the engine speed, but at idle was not related to engine speed.
I understand how difficult it is to describe it.
The good thing is that now there is not, but also the bad thing is I do not know after what I changed what caused him.

JohnW wrote:
Αdjust cam chain as per manual and it should be fine.

Valves and camshaft chain were meticulously adjusted.

JohnW wrote:
The manual does not mention end float in camshaft so presumably not important.

I do not understand that, and the translator does not help

Continuing some restoration work ...
Because my Τ72 was 50 cc , it did not have passenger footrest on the rear arm.
So a friend who owns a T80 gave me one he had spare.
On my bike I had something like that on the lower screw fixing the rear shock absorber to the rear arm



But it was set up and back and was not comfortable for the passenger to place his feet there.

I removed my rear arm :



And I started the process of painting the rear arm, here the T80 rear arm and the footrests



Here on the left the genuine footrest and on the right a Honda C50 aftermarket footrest that I bought to replace the genuine because they had a lot of wear.





Eventually I did not like it and I decided to keep the genuine ones and make them chrome,
I proceeded to this solution because their covers were in good condition.

My friend, gave me along with the rear arm , the shaft drive and the bevel box .

I do not know why, but they both , mine from T50 and his from T80 wrote 22F00,



the only difference was in these numbers:





He gave me a gift and a fuel cock, since my own had leaked.



And here after cleaning:





Τhe old covers became much better with a cleaning and plenty of silicone spray.



Ηere is my rear arm without footrests , bevel box and shaft.

Sadly, the T80 rear arm was sprayed with silver colour, trying to remove it, I understood what the spare parts get when you live next to the sea.











Why do I suddenly have the impression that I have a lot of work here?


To be continued ....

Hi Duckrider,  A very enjoyable read with quality photos. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post it. I look forward to your next instalment.
Best wishes Pete.

Too good to ride!!

A beautiful, sympathetic and thoughtful restoration, very well done! I like the way you repair, modify and 'make do and mend' ( as we say in UK ) rather than simply following the trend of throwing away and buying new. Very sharp photographs and inspiring too. Although I'm a new member, I always enjoy reading your little articles on improvements and innovations.

Thank you all for your very kind words.

I am currently working on a modification from 6 volts to 12 in an attempt to produce power that allows me to mount a foreign projector on the front light .

Those who have the manual will of course have noticed that there are three coils, one for the ignition and a part of the other charges the battery and the rest is used in the front light, the instrument lighting and the rear seat lamp.

Using a burned light coil core i will wind up a new light / charge coil using larger cross-section winding wire , hoping to generate a voltage greater than 50 volts AC to supply the rectifier with sufficient power.
I've found a rectifier plan here:

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-reliable-motorcycle-voltage-regulato/

Or maybe I could use a four contact rectifier from a later moto such as a Honda Innova

Nice work you have done here.
Did you found out the reason why the gear of the camshain has rubbed against the cylinder head. I also found this on my bike. Did you replaced the bearings?
What parts (piston, cylinder) did you use for the rebuild, and why you have rebuild it 2 times already?

Good morning, sorry I was late to answer but I was on vacation.
The problem with camshaft bearings, if you mean that, the engineer told me that there is no problem with engine operation and that it is a problem found on many motorcycles of the same type.
But I did not feel safe and for this reason I bought a used cylinder head, did a good cleaning, changed the valve seals and installed it. But at the moment I do not know if I have the same problem again

Initially I just bought it, I was more concerned with the body, the electrical, and the upgrade as a look because there did not seem to be any mechanical problem in the engine.
The motorbike was stuck for about ten years and I wanted to release it to see if there was a problem with the engine. Finally, the most serious problem it had was the clogged centrifugal oil filter.

But I do not know if this was the cause of the drop in oil pressure which may not have raised oil in the upper part of the cylinder head. I can not say for sure, as I think the oil pump is more likely to be responsible.

So in the second attempt, I dealt with the mechanical parts and the engine, because it also had a problem with the clutch discs.