Rust treatment

In view of the dire state of the T80 featured in this thread https://yamahatownmatet80.forumotion.co.uk/t1042-a-total-rust-bucket  its advisable to remove the petrol tank and coat the inside of the frame particularly around the top shock absorber mounting points with Waxoyl https://www.hammerite.co.uk/product/waxoyl/ or similar rust treatment. Also lower down remove the battery holder and Waxoyl the lower section. These areas are prone to rusting from inside, Waxoyl will stop the rust taking hold.
Just done my bike, there was a lot of surface rust in there.

I removed the swing arm which was stuck in the bearings, cleaned and Kurust it, waiting for warmer weather to top coat it, it was time to re-pack all the shaft splines. next job is to Kurust the centre stand and lower frame, remove tank and preserve the inside of the frame. I did notice the left upper suspension bush had play in it, and I've always tried to find a reason why it pulled to the left a bit, seems it was this bush and the seized right hand side swing arm bearing.
Also notice the Ignition pick up was going rusty, hopefully when cleaned it will rejuvenate it. The clutch linkage pivots also require re greasing.
What a great piece of design and engineering went into the drive train. If only they still made it.

good bike I love riding around town ,but open roads are abit more of a challenge but worst is the lights apart from that brilliant bike

Dave Weller wrote:I removed the swing arm which was stuck in the bearings, cleaned and Kurust it, waiting for warmer weather to top coat it, it was time to re-pack all the shaft splines. next job is to Kurust the centre stand and lower frame, remove tank and preserve the inside of the frame. I did notice the left upper suspension bush had play in it, and I've always tried to find a reason why it pulled to the left a bit, seems it was this bush and the seized right hand side swing arm bearing.
Also notice the Ignition pick up was going rusty, hopefully when cleaned it will rejuvenate it. The clutch linkage pivots also require re greasing.
What a great piece of design and engineering went into the drive train. If only they still made it.

Kurust on its own will not stop it from rusting, especially this time of the year being its so damp. You should paint it immediately, even if it means using some old leftover aerosol paint cans and then recoating it when winter is over. Ideally you should leave it till summer then get it bead blasted and coated the same day. When i restored my Townmate i bead blasted the parts then Kurusted followed by red oxide then primer, finishing with the top coat and clear coat.

I have sealed the Kurust by using a rattle can car paint, will finish off with a couple of extra coats. Probably also give it some stone chip to the cross piece.