LED indicators

Has anyone had success with led indicator bulbs and led flasher relay?

I've done a 12v conversion, but if I fit a 12v led relay and bulbs, they don't work correctly.

Put normal bulbs back in... They work fine!

I've also tried 6v led indicator bulbs...

Most odd

More detail please on "don't work correctly". What are the indicators doing?

Is the flasher an LED compatible one?

If you have carried out the conversion to a 12V lighting system then you really don't need LEDs. Normal globes provide more than enough illumination IMO!

Sorry, should've written more

As a 6v system with 10w bulbs indicators work fine

As a 12v dc system with 10w bulbs indicators work fine

Put two right hand led bulbs in... Works fine

Put the front left in... Both front flash????

Put left rear in... Nothing

Relay is an orange 12v led flasher relay with adjustable speed from ebay. With the 2 x left LEDs in, the flash speed can be adjusted nicely.

Have also tried with normal relay and no different. In fact I think i've tried all combinations

Flashes fine with bulbs and the led relay

Most odd.

Just trying to lighten load all round so I can run a 35w headlight

It's a total DC conversion with a rewound lighting coil.

Switch on ignition... Lights on.

I'm 75% there. I just need slightly smaller dia wire to give me more layers/output.

Battery currently discharging until bike revving 3k+

Is anyone on here actually running 6 or 12v LED indicators successfully?

T80Jon wrote:
Put two right hand led bulbs in... Works fine

Put the front left in... Both front flash????

Put left rear in... Nothing

I'm not sure, but did you check if the bulbs you placed are fitted with the right polarity?

I had problems with the old flasher unit

So, i made my own led lights , for rear



and front



and my own flasher working at 6Volts



This is the wiring diagram



You can made your own , without the LM317, i put the LM317 to drop the voltage at stable 3Volts, as the white lwds must work at this voltage.

I can answer your question because I have been there, and like you I was
utterly bemused; it took me ages to work out what the problem was.

It is the warning light that's giving the trouble.  It has one terminal
connected to the left-side indicators, and its other terminal connected to
the right-side indicators.  When you turn on the indicators, it gets power
from whichever side is 'live', and goes to earth via the bulbs on the other
side.  The warning light's resistance is high, compared with the bulbs
through which it earths, so it won't pass enough current to light them up.
Conversely, the bulbs' resistances are too low to impede the operation of
the warning light.

That is the case as standard with incandescent bulbs.  With LED bulbs, the
warning light can easily pass enough current to light up the LEDs on the
other side!

What you should find is that if you remove the warning light bulb, the
indicators will function normally.
The way I got round it was to use one LED bulb and one incandescent bulb
each side.  I am not saving as much battery power as I wanted to, but it
helps.

The only 'proper' solutions I could think of were:
1.  Use a 3-pin flasher unit which has a pin dedicated for a warning light,
and rewire the warning light so it gets its power from that third pin and
goes to a normal earth.  If anyone knows of a suitable device please let us
know.
2.  Rewire the warning light so it gets its power via two diodes, one from
the left and one from the right (both going to the same terminal of the
warning light).  Again the other terminal would have to go to a normal
earth.
3.  Have two separate warning lights.

What I personally understand is that the 6 volt operating voltage condemns the owner to limited options.
Limited options on flasher units, bulbs and various accessories and accessories available for 12 volt installations.

Unfortunately, the problem we face with those who have versions with 6 volts, but also with 12 volts, is not so much the low voltage, but more the low power.
The voltage can easily be doubled with a DC/DC converter, but the power generated by the light coils is not enough to power lamps with more watts.

Also, even if we manage to produce power with more powerful coils and rectifiers, the headlight will never provide proper lighting as it does in most modern motorcycles.
Because the mirror and its lamp do not allow the installation of a halogen lamp on an H4 base.

Anything else we do will be just personal experimentation, possibly not applicable to all motorcycles, but the worst will not be easy for people without special knowledge.

But this is my personal opinion