Fettling my Townmate

Hello there,

With the daffodils up and and springtime chirping of birds filling the air today, I took it upon myself to do a bit of fettling on the my T80 (B-reg).

It runs well (19 thou miles, I think), but it's never idled when cold and this puts my girlfriend off trying to ride it. It stalls every time she comes to a junction, which is something the motorists of Bristol don't thank her for.

Anyroad, I was of a mind to check the valve clearances as I doubt they've ever been done, but I can't persuade the little covers off for any quantity of trying. Does anyone have any tips for achieving this operation? I had a (12-sided) 24mm socket on them, and even when held very firmly in place it elected to damage corners rather than effect movement.

I also wonder if anyone ever replaced the machine screws that attach engine covers with Allen-headed screws? If so, do you know what threads, lengths, etc are required? The current Philips screws seem to want to round out at the slightest provocation, even when presented with the snuggest-fitting of drivers. While they are coming undone, I wouldn't like to have to put them back in again.

Ta,
Matt

Matt try undoing them when the motors been running or apply some heat becareful though not to hot.

Ah yes good idea, an excuse for a spin around town. I might try and get a six pointed socket too, rather than the 12 pointed one I'm using.

Block of wood and lightly tap the top to a good soaking over night with wd40 or plus gas will be good to.

Admin drgaz wrote:Block of wood and lightly tap the top to a good soaking over night with wd40 or plus gas will be good to.

To undo tappet covers you need either a socket with FULL hexagon (the ones which only locate on corners will slip & chew up the alloy)
I use a spanner like pictured. Given a sharp hit with hammer, it will loosen caps ok.
As for Philips screws, an impact wrench with correct bit usually loosens them, replace them with s/steel socket cap screws. A guy on here (Fuzz) sells them on his Mildhogs web site http://www.mildhogs.8m.com/t80shop.html

Right, I'm off to acquire a 6-sided socket or spanner. Silly question, it is 24mm isn't it?

You sure its not muck in the slow running jet that makes its stall?? It may not be tight tappets as you would have low compression.

M-Saveloy wrote:Right, I'm off to acquire a 6-sided socket or spanner. Silly question, it is 24mm isn't it?

Yes 24mm.

Admin drgaz wrote:You sure its not muck in the slow running jet that makes its stall?? It may not be tight tappets as you would have low compression.

Could be blocked idle jet, but likely to be tight tappets as in this thread https://yamahatownmatet80.forumotion.co.uk/t296-won-t-idle-when-cold?highlight=Idle+speed Might not be enough to affect compression on kick over.

I would have thought that if the tappets where tight that the none idle would be when the motor got hot and would allow the tappets to stay open? Also it would back fire though the carb or the exhaust when hot? I recon dirt in the jets or the carb needs setting up.

As Mildhogs no longer do the socket screw sets, you will have to buy in individual packs, This eBay shop Falcon Workshop Supplies http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-6mm-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-SOCKET-CAP-SCREWS-ALLEN-KEY-BOLTS-HEX-HEAD-FWS-/190738124834?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=490105261577&hash=item2c68e0d022 does all the required sizes in packs from 5 to 100.
Here are the sizes:-
Flywheel cover
M6 x 30mm (2)
M6 x 40mm (1)

Clutch/Transmission side:
M6 x 35mm (7)
M6 x 45mm (1)

Main crankcase (some only accessible if engine removed from frame)
M6 x 45 (6)
M6 x 60 (2)
M6 x 75 (1)