6 Volt to 12 volt conversion

3hundredspartans Tue 6 Jan - 13:30

Hi All,
Not sure if this topic has been discussed on this forum but I have searched and couldn't find anything.

I am really contemplating, if it is possible, changing the Townmate to a 12V system. Indicators all work find but are not bright enough during the day as I often get the horn blown at me from other motorists when turning as they cannot see the indicators flashing. Not good. I have even searched long and hard for 6V LED globes but they are as rare as hens teeth.

I have done some searching on the web and found some information but would like to know what advice or suggestions anyone on this forum has to offer.

The engine fitted to the T80 is nearly completely identical to the Yamaha Raptor YFM 80 and that is a 12V system and some of the YFM models are 3 speed and other models are 4 speed. Not many have been sold here in OZ but it is not easy to find many that get wrecked at motorcycle dismantlers.

What do you folk think?

Regards, Frank.

JohnW Tue 6 Jan - 17:22

Cant really offer any info on this myself, looks like the Raptor electrics may be the way forward, but as you say difficult to obtain these parts in OZ, found this thread about an LED conversion. https://yamahatownmatet80.forumotion.co.uk/t534-conversion-to-led-lighting?highlight=12volt+conversion

3hundredspartans Wed 14 Jan - 8:24

Looked around and had a chat with an electrician at work and looks like this is the simplest, quickest and cheapest solution to get the lighting on the Townmate to where it should be.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0264

I'm sure something like this would be available in the UK.

Regards, Frank.

3hundredspartans Fri 6 Mar - 5:36

Will be elaborating on what my results will be with converting 6V lighting to 12V lighting soon. Have the components at hand, just need to do the conversion. Keep you posted!

JohnW Fri 6 Mar - 11:36

3hundredspartans wrote:Looked around and had a chat with an electrician at work and looks like this is the simplest, quickest and cheapest solution to get the lighting on the Townmate to where it should be.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0264

I'm sure something like this would be available in the UK.

Regards, Frank.

That device wont be suffient to supply the amperage required by Townmate lighting which is 5.5 amps for headlight, tail light & instrument light. ie 25 + 5 + 3 watt = 33watt divided by 6 = 5.5 amps. Also they work AC not DC the device you have found works on DC.

3hundredspartans Fri 6 Mar - 23:08

I haven't gone down that path John. I looked closer at that device and was told by someone in the know it would not be adequate, so you are right, not suitable. Yamaha Australia have given me the following details to change the T80 as the Grizzly/Badger/YFM engines are very similar but the main differences being 12 volt and electric start.

Ignition and lighting circuits are seperate so looking at replacing the lighting coil, Rectifier, battery, bulbs, indicator flasher relay, headlight, tail light and instrument panel bulbs. Ignition components remain unchanged. I'll see how it goes.

3hundredspartans Mon 23 Mar - 11:56

Update:

Carried out the conversion on the weekend and the T80 is now running on a 12V lighting system. $:d\\'-\\':$

The difference is like night and day.

What I did is the following:
• Change the rectifier/regulator to a NOS Yamaha 12V unit from a YFM80 Badger/Raptor.
• Replaced the lighting coil from the same.
• Changed all the bulbs to normal incandescent globes. Not fussed about the LEDs at the moment.
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)
• Replaced the flasher relay to a 12V LED.
• Replaced the horn with a 12V aftermarket unit.

The only thing left to do is to instal a regulator for the fuel meter to drop the 12V to 6V as it draws power from the battery. It still works fine but cannot leave it like that.

A minor modification was needed to the connecter at the rectifier. The original 6V unit has a 3 blade pin plug which fits directly into the base of the rectifier. The new 12V unit has 3 wires with bullet connectors so I removed the pins from the wiring loom plug and fitted them into another male – female plug with extending wires with bullet connectors. Connected all and it is working like a charm. The lighting is 2 to 3 times brighter now and the dash lights are much brighter.

Cheers, Frank. $:d\\'-\\':$ Very Happy

JohnW Mon 23 Mar - 15:05

3hundredspartans wrote:Update:

Carried out the conversion on the weekend and the T80 is now running on a 12V lighting system. $:d\\'-\\':$

The difference is like night and day.

What I did is the following:
• Change the rectifier/regulator to a NOS Yamaha 12V unit from a YFM80 Badger/Raptor.
• Replaced the lighting coil from the same.
• Changed all the bulbs to normal incandescent globes. Not fussed about the LEDs at the moment.
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)
• Replaced the flasher relay to a 12V LED.
• Replaced the horn to a 12V aftermarket unit.

The only thing left to do is to instal a regulator for the fuel meter to drop the 12V to 6V as it draws power from the battery. It still works fine but cannot leave it like that.

A minor modification was needed to the connecter at the rectifier. The original 6V unit has a 3 blade pin plug which fits directly into the base of the rectifier. The new 12V unit has 3 wires with bullet connectors so I removed the pins from the wiring loom plug and fitted them into another male – female plug with extending wires with bullet connectors. Connected all and it is working like a charm. The lighting is 2 to 3 times brighter now and the dash lights are much brighter.

Cheers, Frank. $:d\\'-\\':$

Looks like a good simple conversion, what wattage headlamp bulb did you fit, just one thing it may get hotter than the 6 volt one & melt the plastic reflector if on for any length of time. What was the total cost?
I wont be bothering to do it on my bike as I rarely use it after dark.

**Admin drgaz** Mon 23 Mar - 17:24

Well done Frank $:d\\'-\\':$

3hundredspartans Tue 24 Mar - 3:12

Hi Gaz,

I used a 25W headlight globe. Identical to the original. 21W for the tail/brake light.

As for the cost, the parts cost a total of approx 75 GBP. The regulator for the fuel meter costs 80p. Took me half a day to do the conversion but well worth and it is alot safer as well. No more lazy lights. Smile

If anyone plans to do the same, you are better off sourcing the rectifier and coil from eBay in the US. Awash with NOS parts over there and very reasonable prices.

I'll post up a link to a PDF of the fuel meter conversion done by a owner in Greece. It's in Greek but I'll translate it before posting.

JohnW Tue 24 Mar - 9:06

I am surprised that a 12volt 25watt bulb gives any more light than a 6volt 25watt one. Watts is Watts after all.

3hundredspartans Tue 24 Mar - 10:45

Hi John,

Unless my lighting coil was suspect which I doubt the lights were weak including the headlight.

The brake light was lazy on illumination once you hit the brakes but now all the lights are a whole lot more responsive and brighter.

The dash lights are also brighter particularly the indicators.

12 volt converstion - 6 Volt to 12 volt conversion 20150324_212504_zpsmp1xtp2v

Headlight (idle rpm)

12 volt converstion - 6 Volt to 12 volt conversion Headlight_zpsk6a8tu4m

Headlight (cruising rpm)

Brake Light

Indicator

Dash

barker Tue 24 Mar - 20:17

im impressed will it catch on we ask ourselves , I would love to do the conversion but its the cost ,how much was it

3hundredspartans Tue 24 Mar - 22:49

barker wrote:im impressed will it catch on we ask ourselves , I would love to do the conversion but its the cost ,how much was it

Hi Barker,

As mentioned above, cost me about 75 pounds all up but because I ride in to work everyday it is worth it for me I was beginning to get other road users not giving way to me in roundabouts and when merging as they could barely see my indicators during the day. I hardly ride at night but it is not an issue now. It is a very straight forward conversion, you just need the parts, soldering iron and away you go. $:d\\'-\\':$

**Admin drgaz** Tue 24 Mar - 22:52

lets wait for the wires to melt $:d\\'-\\':$
lets know when it goes on melt down Frank $:d\\'-\\':$ have a great day , it freezing tonight here in the land of king Richard the 3rd

3hundredspartans Wed 25 Mar - 0:18

Thanks Gaz, have faith my friend! Should all be good.

You have a good night.

Sunny in Sydney, 25C. sunny

**Admin drgaz** Wed 25 Mar - 23:00

Cheers frank $:d\\'-\\':$ plenty of fire wood and single malt $:d\\'-\\':$

stevio laverda Tue 8 Dec - 10:47

There is no need to worry about wires melting down -- higher voltage = less amps to supply same watts --- 6 volt systems require heavier gauge wire than 12 volt systems -- 24 volt systems on HGVs and coaches often use really thin wires for the same reason

oldskoolpulsar Tue 8 Dec - 13:32

in the stator bell, what orientation is the magnets? N/ S N/ S ?

james_curley24 Tue 8 Mar - 19:26

Hi frank,

I have done the exact same thing you have with the conversion, but I can't for the life of me get the lighting coil to work. It's blown a couple of fuses now, and the lights will not power up at all. Is there any chance you could let me know which wires attach in which orientation? The coil I received had one bare copper wire (guessing that's earth) 2 yellows (the same as original, twisted together) bit it has one green wire? The original is orange? Thanks in advance Smile

James

3hundredspartans Tue 8 Mar - 22:55

Hi James,

The Townmate's wiring system has only one fuse (at the battery) so I'm a little confused that you have blown a couple of fuses.

Just confirming you have covered these items:

• Change the rectifier/regulator to a NOS Yamaha 12V unit from a YFM80 Badger/Raptor.
• Replaced the lighting coil from the same.
• Changed all the bulbs to normal incandescent globes. Not fussed about the LEDs at the moment.
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)
• Replaced the flasher relay to a 12V LED.
• Replaced the horn with a 12V aftermarket unit.

Have a look at the pics of when I did mine, maybe that can shed some light.

Also, here is the image of converting the Fuel Meter to step down the voltage back to 6V as it draws power directly from the battery.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/t80_wi10.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150324.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150325.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150326.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150327.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150328.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150329.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150330.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150331.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150332.jpg

Thanks, Frank.

james_curley24 Wed 9 Mar - 0:54

3hundredspartans wrote:Hi James,

The Townmate's wiring system has only one fuse (at the battery) so I'm a little confused that you have blown a couple of fuses.

Just confirming you have covered these items:

• Change the rectifier/regulator to a NOS Yamaha 12V unit from a YFM80 Badger/Raptor.
• Replaced the lighting coil from the same.
• Changed all the bulbs to normal incandescent globes. Not fussed about the LEDs at the moment.
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)
• Replaced the flasher relay to a 12V LED.
• Replaced the horn with a 12V aftermarket unit.

Have a look at the pics of when I did mine, maybe that can shed some light.

Also, here is the image of converting the Fuel Meter to step down the voltage back to 6V as it draws power directly from the battery.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/t80_wi10.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150324.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150325.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150326.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150327.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150328.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150329.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150330.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150331.jpg

https://i.servimg.com/u/f84/17/79/03/86/20150332.jpg

Thanks, Frank.

You see that's where I'm confused... I ordered a NOS coil from the yfm80, but the wire colours are different. Yours is exactly the same colours as the original, mine has a green wire whereas yours has an orange one. And the black wire you have with an eye on the end mine has a bare copper one that's very short. (Please see image)

http://postimg.org/image/iq6hr85sb/

Thanks

James

3hundredspartans Wed 9 Mar - 1:07

Hi James,

That's OK. Basically your green wire is the same as the orange on mine, you've got the yellow wires connecting to the Yellow/Red stripe wire from the stator. Your copper wire is the earth so connect as pictured in mine.

james_curley24 Wed 9 Mar - 1:35

3hundredspartans wrote:Hi James,

That's OK. Basically your green wire is the same as the orange on mine, you've got the yellow wires connecting to the Yellow/Red stripe wire from the stator. Your copper wire is the earth so connect as pictured in mine.

Hi frank,

We'll I have now just refitted the old coil just to try it, and I now have no lights at all, and I've tried the old rectifier aswell and still no lights. So it looks like I've broken something... getting só stressed out with this now. Not sure where to go from here

James

3hundredspartans Wed 9 Mar - 2:42

Do you have any power with just the ignition turned on and the engine NOT running? Example, you should at least have the horn and neutral light in the dash.

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