6 Volt to 12 volt conversion

3hundredspartans wrote:Do you have any power with just the ignition turned on and the engine NOT running? Example, you should at least have the horn and neutral light in the dash.

Hi, yes I have a brake light, indicators and horn. Just realised my headlight bulb is blown, and my rear light is an aftermarket led unit, and I may have blown the LEDs. Will be testing it tomorrow with direct current to battery.

Will let you know how it goes.

Thank you for all your help so far

James

I have checked my lights with direct current from the battery, and they came on. So I'm not sure what is wrong

James

Hi frank,

Just a quick update. Got the coil working perfectly, have all lights now.

http://postimg.org/image/q5553evwz/

The new problem, is that the thread on the end of the crankshaft (for the magneto bowl) has stripped. Is there any way around this? I will probably just kick the bike over and set it on fire if I have the strip the engine down and replace it XD

Thanks

James

Does it have to be certain year get bits from

Sorry i ment the Yamaha Raptor YFM 80 parts he used to convert it to 12v

Mine is a early model with small silver front indicators and the rear cluster were indicators are part of rear light but it's got a orange light in speedo to say when there flashing

Hi Mark,

Please refer to the info below if you want to go ahead and do the modification.

Any Raptor from the late 80s and possibly early 90s should do.

Here you go, done all the hard work for you!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-NOS-LIGHTING-COIL-1-YFM50-80-100-55X-81313-M0-/371256068088

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/85-YAMAHA-YFM80-BADGER-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-UNIT-/181846201655

3hundredspartans wrote:Update:

Carried out the conversion on the weekend and the T80 is now running on a 12V lighting system.  

The difference is like night and day.

What I did is the following:
• Change the rectifier/regulator to a NOS Yamaha 12V unit from a YFM80 Badger/Raptor. Yamaha Part: 55X-81960-90
• Replaced the lighting coil from the same. Yamaha Part: 55X-81313-M0
• Changed all the bulbs to normal incandescent globes. Not fussed about the LEDs at the moment.
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)
• Replaced the flasher relay to a 12V LED.
• Replaced the horn with a 12V aftermarket unit.

The only thing left to do is to instal a regulator for the fuel meter to drop the 12V to 6V as it draws power from the battery. It still works fine but cannot leave it like that.

A minor modification was needed to the connecter at the rectifier. The original 6V unit has a 3 blade pin plug which fits directly into the base of the rectifier. The new 12V unit has 3 wires with bullet connectors so I removed the pins from the wiring loom plug and fitted them into another male – female plug with extending wires with bullet connectors. Connected all and it is working like a charm. The lighting is 2 to 3 times brighter now and the dash lights are much brighter.

Cheers, Frank.  

Thank you going do this for my bike plus running a sat nav of a 6v battery is killing it

3hundredspartans wrote:Update:
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)

A question, since you used a YB4L-B battery, how did you put it at its base since the old one is smaller;

Duckrider wrote:

3hundredspartans wrote:Update:
• Replaced the battery (12V 4.5 Ah)

A question, since you used a YB4L-B battery, how did  you put it at its base since the old one  is smaller;

I found a battery that is not much bigger than the original 6V unit. Size 90(L) x 70(D) x 106(H)mm from this store. Specs here: https://www.jaycar.com.au/12v-4-5ah-sla-battery/p/SB2484

Images of the setup at the moment with a piece of wood but will be fabricating a custom fit tray. The side panel clears the battery and fits as normal.







Frank.

3hundredspartans  , thank you for the photos.

The only photo i have for a 12V battery is this , and as i saw the battery is much longer





Maybe there is an different bracket,battery box for this battery, or something else is going on here as this model had an electric starter.

I have diagrams for T50 , T80, and T80D , T80ED
The bracket,battery box for T50/80 at Pl 19 index 10 is 22F-21393-00 (6v battery)
for T80D at Pl 17 index 12 is 22F-21393-01,(6v battery with electric starter) and
for T80ED at Pl 19 index 10 is 22J-21393-00 (12V battery with electric starter)

Is that the original battery? Not sure about the electric start models if they are the same regarding the area where the battery fits but I'm sure you can source a similar size 12V battery to fit easily in there.

3hundredspartans wrote:Is that the original battery?

Yes, it is .

Do not ask for more information because in my country there have not been released many 12V motorbikes and most of them were interspersed by independent importers, and all were imported second hand.

I have seen 12 volt motorbikes with 50 cc engine and electric starter.

Does anyone think this conversion would work on a V80?

Yes it would.

Thanks for that. Might have to give it a try

goll116 wrote:Does anyone think this conversion would work on a V80?

Because I have not read the V80 manual, but I have seen its coils, they are completely different from those of T80.
It's star construction, if I'm not wrong.

Hi

Can I ask... Does this conversion mean that all lighting is 12vdc, or are there in effect 2 coils within the yfm coil... 1 supplying AC to lights and 1 supplying AC to the rectifier and then on to a 12v battery.
I really want to try this out, but am struggling to get my head around it

T80Jon wrote:Hi

Can I ask... Does this conversion mean that all lighting is 12vdc, or are there in effect 2 coils within the yfm coil... 1 supplying AC to lights and 1 supplying AC to the rectifier and then on to a 12v battery.
I really want to try this out, but am struggling to get my head around it

I will try to explain the conversion to you.
The bike has two coils, one for ignition, and a double one for charging the battery and lighting that changes depending on the engine speed.
The rear brake light, the fuel gauge, the horn, the light bulb of the neutral, and anything else that is checked and operated as soon as we turn on the key switch are powered by the battery.
So, all these must turn into 12 Volts, as for the fuel gauge we can put a voltage regulator LM7806 to drop the voltage to 6 volts.

Fortunately, there is no need to change the ignition system, all we change is the for lighting.

First we need a lighting coil, a rectifier and a battery.

I removed the winding from an old damaged lighting coil and wrapped my own, using a larger diameter wire and because now there will be no two coils, there will be more windings.



Here in position



Here you can see the new coil at the left up and the old at the right up side,



What we are asking for is not only the production of higher voltage, but also higher current, and therefore more power generation.
The old coil has one end of the wire connected to the ground, this means that we can do a simple rectifier with diode and we will lose power, as shown in the figure:



But if we do a full upgrade we will get the maximum power from our coil, as we can see at the next figure



Of course at the entrance or in the production we will not have a transformer but our coil, RL is our rectifier or we can say the output.

Anyone with the knowledge required can build a rectifier himself, but we can also buy a cheap 12 volt rectifier from a more modern motorbike , this bike must have front light with a halogen lamp, for example from a Honda Astrea .



As it should be a four terminals one for two inputs from the coil and two outputs for the battery.

I have currently built the coil, and I have not found the time to complete the construction

For diy rectifier you can read here

https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-reliable-motorcycle-voltage-regulato/

And remember we need the 1/3 of the construction , as this above is for a motorbike with six coils

Thank you for posting that
I may well try the same idea

I'm trying to make something that will help me have a better headlight.

Can I ask what wire you used and how you worked out how many turns of wire on the coil to increase the voltage?